..............................................................(Care and maintance for the
On the P1, I use a very light trigger adjustment for
competition. I turn the trigger spring weight adjustment
all the way out, but it's important that you have a
little 1st stage trigger adjustment, because it will fire
when you close the barrel against the
cocking hammer. Not very safe!
Never dry fire the P1 without a pellet or or a peace of
cotton in the barrel. I prefer to hold the pistol
lightly, squeezing the trigger very gently and let it
recoil. Hold the gun the same way every time that
you shoot so that you receive the maximum accuracy
from your pistol.
The P1 likes to diesel and smoke so try not to over lube
the compression chamber. The lube that I use for the P1
is the 65% MOLY PASTE from FEL-PRO. Their address is: FEL-PRO
CHEMICAL 6120 E. 58th Ave. Commerce City, CO 80022
Tel 800-992-9799. It comes in a 8oz can, probably enough
for a life time. Work the paste into the cocking
slots to coat the main spring which helps dampen the
main spring. Work in to the compression chamber to
lube the Teflon piston seal. I recommend you use
the P1 primarily on high power, on low power the
Teflon piston seal does not
expand fully and will take a set. When you go to high
power, it will not be able to develop full power,
and the accuracy seems to suffer.
If you take the P1 apart you will only need very little
paste for the Teflon piston seal. I do not recommend
taking a new P1 apart even though it is an easy gun to
work on, because of the close tolerance of the cocking
arm slots in the compression tube. Without due care they
will slice some of Teflon off of the Teflon seal. If you
stuff the seal from the back of the gun the same thing
will happen from the retaining pin holes. They are sharp
and need to be honed or chamfered out from the inside.
The cocking arm slots need to be hone out on the inside
to round off the sharp edges of the slot. Using shims
between the Teflon seal and the compression seal can work
as an installation aid but it's not easy. What I do:
coat the main spring, and lube the Teflon piston
using a small screw driver or the flat end of a
toothpick. Moderately coat the end; rubbing it on
the main spring through the cocking slots on the P1
cocked on low power so that there will be a little room
between the spring loops, it will splatter a bit when
fired which helps distribute the lube inside the piston
where there are slots on the top side to lube the
compression tube that the piston seal passes through.
When you no longer get any splatter after shooting;
relube and repeat once more to insure you have properly
lubed the piston and springs.
If the main spring should ever break, chances are
that the Teflon piston seal is good, so just take out the
broken spring parts leaving the piston seal. To check the
Teflon seal take a small flash light and with the
receiver head removed, check the seal through the rear of
the compression tube. I have the P1 schematic drawings on
our Web Site.
The P1 Magnum is hard on a scope, needs a good airgun
scope. I use the Bushnell 79-0039 (3-9x32) airgun
rifle scope for Silhouette shooting.
Thank You: Robert Schattler firstname.lastname@example.org
Beeman P1 Magnum
|Pos. Part No. Description
||Pos. Part No. Description
|1401 9109 Barrel (specify .177/.20/.22)
||1400 9461 Cocking Arm
|1403 9551 Set Screw for No.
||1402 9453 Set Plate for No.
|1405 8610 Pivot Pin for No.
||1404 8905 Latch Pin for No.
|1407 8635 Cocking Lever (Right)
||1406 8611 Pivot Pin for No.
|1409 8973 Set Screw for No.
||1408 8636 Cocking Lever
|1411 8982 Set Screw for No.
||1410 9472 Shim
|1413 9463 Receiver Saddle
||1412 9446 Frame
|1414 9464 Receiver Head
||1413a 9237 Receiver Saddle
after serial #310911
|1415 8645 Air Compression
||1414c Receiver Head Complete
|1417* 9072 Breech Seal
||1416 8986 Fixing Screw
|1418* 9073 Seal for Air-Channel
||1417a* 9077 Breech Seal
after serial #310911
|1420 9462 End Piece
||1419 9075 Seal for Receiver
|1422 8612 Pin for No. 1415k
||1421 8902 Pin for No. 1420
|1428 9203 Piston
||1423 8983 Screw for No. 1415x
|1430 8646 Mainspring Guide
||1429* 9074 Piston Seal
|1433 9160 Trigger
||1431* 9044 Mainspring
|1435 8984 Adjustment Screw
||1434 9509 Pivot Pin for No
|1438 9220 Safety Bolt
||1436 8985 Adjustment Screw
|1440 9551 Set Screw for No.
||1439 8637 Safety Lever, 2X
|1442 9589 Spring for No 1441
||1441 9510 Plunger
|1444 9039 Spring for No.
||1443 9458 Trigger Bar
|1446 8614 Pin for No. 1447
||1445 8613 Pivot Pin for No.
|1448 8615 Pin for No. 1447
||1447 8638 Sear Lever
|1450 8639 Lever
||1449 9040 Spring for No.
|1452 9221 Plunger
||1451 9507 Pivot Pin for No.
|1454 9322 Sear
||1453 9041 Spring for No 1450
|1456 9783 Hammer
||1455 9522 Pivot Pin for No.
|1457 8647 Hammer
||1456c 9783 Hammer Complete
|1459 9459 Cocking Rod
||1458 8616 Pivot Pin for No.
|1461 8982 Screw for No. 1460
||1460 8640 Lever for No. 1466
|1463k 8641 Safety Rod
||1462 9509 Pivot Pin for No.
|1467 8617 Hammer Stop Pin
||1466 9042 Spring for No.
|1469 9043 Spring
||1468 8631 Lever
|1471 9222 Bolt for No 1469
||1470 9501 Pin
|1473 9131 Grip (Right Side)
||1472 9501 Pin
|1475* 8977 Grip Screw
||1474 9132 Grip (Left Side)
|45 9266 Micrometer Rear
||43 9264 Micrometer Rr. Sight
|45b 8921 Notch Pin
||45a 9030 Notch Spring
|45d 9282 Lock Clip
||45c 8976 Windage Adj. Screw
|46a 8975 Elevation Adj.
||46 9720 Rear Sight Blade
|46c 8922 Rear Sight Hinge
||46b 9031 Elevation Adj.
Parts for Spare Parts Kit P101.
Not sold separately. Order
Part 1414c (Receiver Head Complete).
Not sold separately. Order
Part 1456c (Hammer Complete).
Use; Lock tight, on your airguns ): I sure was embarrassed at
the last outdoors ASR&PA (air gun division) match
with my Beeman P1, In the middle of the match when I
would close the Cocking Arm Part number 1400 In the (diagram
at the URL) http://www.citlink.net/~schatler/p1a.htm it would fire.
As soon as
the safety rod #1463 was touched by the cocking
arm, the gun would fire with out touching the trigger,
which was caused from a loose screw #1423 which backed
out, and made 2 or 3 thousand of an inch play at the #1447
sear lever, which put pressure on the trigger
sear #1454. As soon as the safety rod was push into
the frame, it would fire. Well anyway I used my SS2
to finish the match. The SS2 with a Red Dot scope mounded
on it, is what I use for indoors shooting
pistol, it is my indoors pistol because, I am color
blind, outdoors the sunlight is the same color as the Red
Dot and with my eyes, ( I can not see the Red Dot ). At
first I thought that the scope battery was dead, so I had
a fellow shooter look through my red dot scope
sight, to see if he could see the red dot, and he said
that it was bright red.
not be embarrassed like I was; Use some type of Lock
Tight on your air guns screws ).
...................The chances are that the screws have
lock-tight on the threads
You may have to heat them up with a match, to loosen the
Beeman use to sale a .20 Cal.barrel kit, to change from .177
to .20, which is a different size set-plate, number 1402
and shim, but if you are going to put the same size
barrel back into the gun no problem.
If you want to go, to a .22 Cal. barrel, a person will
have to buy it with the cocker arm (number 1401) , the
reason is the breech port will not line up, with another
Ok the rattle would be the cocking lever (#1408 and #1408),
there is about 3/8 of an inch, of play between the cocker
arms, and the piston, when not cocked, no harm here but
you can bend the arms a little to rub against the air
compression tube (#1415) slots, so that it will not slide
back and forth.
If you need to take your P1 apart for some reason, please
contact me so that I can explain to you how to do it,
their is a lot of damage that can happen, if not done
Yes the main
spring can be removed with out removing the Teflon piston
seal. I must took mine apart 50 times or more times. For
a spring compressor, I used a 12 inch bar clamp with a
slot in it for the part number 1468t.
For safety I
slip on a 4 inch piece of clear 1 1/4 inch
hose, over the Air Compression Tube, part number
1428 to hold the spring from getting away and
possibly injure the person. In the article, I put only
a little Moly Paste, to improve the velocity not to slow
it down. Now that I have a lot of Moly Paste, I put maybe
4 oz. of the stuff in to the spring, also before I had
two main springs in the P1, grate velocity, but pore
If you have good eyes, shoot the P1 as shown below, but
if you are over 50 year of age, the best bet is to use a
scope, which that I do. ON holding the P1 with a scope is
an difference ball game. I know of one
competition shooter, that shoots the P1 with a scope,
that keeps on holding a Silhouette Master
classification , he use to be a friend of Tim McMurray.
I understand that one shooter took the California
state Silhouette Championship with a .177 Cal. P1 on low
power. In 22 Cal, I never used a P1 in that Cal., so
I do not know what to tell you about how to shoot it.
In the next e-mail that I will sent you, I will
try to explain how I used and hold the P1 with a Scope.
To look at it, you'd swear the PI
is a government .45 ACP on steroids. The upper half,
which houses the barrel and serves as the cocking handle,
is almost twice the size of a Colt slide group. To cock,
you thumb back the hammer, which releases the upper
housing to swing freely. The barrel is housed in that
half; and on our pistol, it was mounted very securely.
Swing the upper housing forward to either point that the
sear engagesthe first click gives you low power,
the second high power. Return the upper housing to
its closed position and the gun is ready to fire!
When you hold it, you'd swear the PI is a Colt .45. It
balances very close to the standard government slabside,
plus the grip dimensions feel exactly the same to me. In
fact, one of the big pluses of this air pistol is that it
exhibits the same handling characteristics as the .45.
You either grip it correctly or you'll chase your point
of impact all around the target. In that respect, the PI
is about the most perfect trainer for the big bore
pistol, have ever encountered. It even bounces in your
hand in the same fashion.
About accuracy, let's look at the way to hold a PI (or a
Colt .45 pistol) now (see
the diagram below).
The first secret is in your middle finger. Wrap it around
the grip frame so you can apply pressure straight back
into the web of your hand. Your thumb applies NO side
pressure, and your other two fingers are also only along
for the ride. You hold the gun with your middle finger
and the web of your hand. Position your trigger finger in
the center of the trigger, so it can apply pressure
straight back. No side pressure allowed! The second and
only other secretand this applies to most recoiling
guns, as wellis
to let the pistol recoil freely. Let it "bounce"
in your hand when it firesthe
more bounce, the better. Just be sure that the gun, and
not the shooter, is doing the bouncing. Try it and see if
your groups don't tighten up considerably. That this is
the principal reason one-handed pistol shooters are able
to out-group two-handed shooters most of the time. The
two-handed hold makes the grip too rigid to permit the
free recoil necessary for top accuracy in guns that
recoil. Two hands are better for rapid repositioning of
the gun, like during multiple target engagements and
combat shooting; but for precise grouping, nothing can
beat the properly executed one-hand hold.
Regarding, to shoot
the P1 with a scope. I got the information on holding the
P1 with a scope, from Tim McMurray's friend Larry
Durham, which holds a master classification for
silhouette using the P1. Larry says to hold the bell of
the scope with the thumb and fore finger with very light
pressure, letting the scope hang freely, holding the
trigger hand as you would shooting the P1 without a scope.
I shot it
that way for a long time untill I shot a pellet through
my thumb nail and into my thumb while adjusting the
AO ring. I was tired and I was shooting another gun, I
guess that I forgot how to shoot the P1 or thought
that I was shooting the other gun. Now I shoot the P1, by
not holding the bell, but still hold the P1 very lightly.
Now I put
dampening paste into the main spring which bring down the
velocity to about an average of 534 fps.
less vibration and recoil using the damping paste, which
is Moly Paste. The file
showing a picture of the Moly Paste on the main spring.
below is the way I used to hold the P1.
Air Gun Articles by the ASR&PS (air gun division)