..............................................................(Care and maintance for the Beeman P1 )
On the P1, I use a very light trigger adjustment for competition. I turn the trigger spring weight adjustment all the way out, but it's important that you have a little 1st stage trigger adjustment, because it will fire when you close the barrel against the
cocking hammer. Not very safe!

Never dry fire the P1 without a pellet or or a peace of cotton in the barrel. I prefer to hold  the pistol lightly, squeezing the trigger very gently and let it recoil. Hold the gun the same way  every time that you shoot so that you receive the maximum  accuracy from your pistol.

The P1 likes to diesel and smoke so try not to over lube the compression chamber. The lube that I use for the P1 is the 65% MOLY PASTE from FEL-PRO. Their address is: FEL-PRO CHEMICAL 6120 E. 58th Ave. Commerce City, CO  80022 Tel 800-992-9799. It comes in a 8oz can, probably enough for  a life time. Work the paste into the cocking lever spring
slots to coat the main spring which helps dampen the main  spring. Work in to the compression chamber to lube the  Teflon piston seal. I recommend you use the P1 primarily on high power, on  low power the Teflon piston seal does not
expand fully and will take a set. When you go to high power, it will not be able to develop full  power, and the accuracy seems to suffer.

If you take the P1 apart you will only need very little paste for the Teflon piston seal. I do not recommend taking a new P1 apart even though it is an easy gun to work on, because of the close tolerance of the cocking arm slots in the compression tube. Without due care they will slice some of Teflon off of the Teflon seal. If you stuff the seal from the back of the gun the same thing will happen from the retaining pin holes. They are sharp and need to be honed or chamfered out from the inside. The cocking arm slots need to be hone out on the inside to round off the sharp edges of the slot. Using shims between the Teflon seal and the compression seal can work as an installation aid but it's not easy.  What I do: coat the main spring, and lube the Teflon  piston using a small screw driver or the flat end of a  toothpick. Moderately coat the end;  rubbing it on the main spring through the cocking slots on the P1 cocked on low power so that there will be a little room between the spring loops, it will splatter a bit when fired which helps distribute the lube inside the piston where there are slots on the top side to lube the compression tube that the piston seal passes through.
When you no longer get any splatter after shooting; relube and repeat once more to insure you have properly lubed the piston and springs.

If the main spring should ever break, chances are  that the Teflon piston seal is good, so just take out the broken spring parts leaving the piston seal. To check the Teflon seal take a  small flash light and with the receiver head removed, check the seal through the rear of the compression tube. I have the P1 schematic drawings on our Web Site. 

The P1 Magnum is hard on a scope, needs a good airgun scope. I use the Bushnell 79-0039  (3-9x32) airgun rifle scope for Silhouette shooting. 

Thank You: Robert Schattler schatler@ctaz.com

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Beeman P1 Magnum

*Key Parts for Spare Parts Kit P101.
†Not sold separately. Order Part 1414c (Receiver Head Complete).
††Not sold separately. Order Part 1456c (Hammer Complete).

( Use; Lock tight, on your airguns ):   I sure was embarrassed at the last outdoors ASR&PA (air gun division) match with my Beeman P1, In the middle of the match when I would close the Cocking Arm Part number 1400 In the (diagram at the URL) http://www.citlink.net/~schatler/p1a.htm  it would  fire. As soon as the safety rod #1463 was touched by the cocking arm, the gun would fire with out touching the trigger, which was caused from a loose screw #1423 which backed out, and made 2 or 3 thousand of an inch play at the #1447 sear lever, which put pressure on the trigger sear #1454. As soon as the safety rod was push into the frame, it would fire. Well anyway I used my SS2 to finish the match. The SS2 with a Red Dot scope mounded on it, is what I use for indoors shooting pistol, it is my indoors pistol because, I am color blind, outdoors the sunlight is the same color as the Red Dot and with my eyes, ( I can not see the Red Dot ). At first I thought that the scope battery was dead, so I had a fellow shooter look through my red dot scope sight, to see if he could see the red dot, and he said that it was bright red.   ( Do not be embarrassed like I was; Use some type of Lock Tight on your air guns  screws ).   Thank You: Robert


...................The chances are that the screws have lock-tight on the threads
You may have to heat them up with a match, to loosen the threads.
Beeman use to sale a .20 Cal.barrel kit, to change from .177 to .20, which is a different size set-plate, number 1402 and shim, but if you are going to put the same size barrel back into the gun no problem.
If you want to go, to a .22 Cal. barrel, a person will have to buy it with the cocker arm (number 1401) , the reason is the breech port will not line up, with another size barrel.
Ok the rattle would be the cocking lever (#1408 and #1408), there is about 3/8 of an inch, of play between the cocker arms, and the piston, when not cocked, no harm here but you can bend the arms a little to rub against the air compression tube (#1415) slots, so that it will not slide back and forth.
If you need to take your P1 apart for some reason, please contact me so that I can explain to you how to do it, their is a lot of damage that can happen, if not done properly,including injury.

Yes the main spring can be removed with out removing the Teflon piston seal. I must took mine apart 50 times or more times. For a spring compressor, I used a 12 inch bar clamp with a slot in it for the part number 1468t. For safety I slip on a 4 inch piece of clear 1 1/4 inch hose, over the Air Compression Tube, part number 1428 to hold the spring from getting away and possibly injure the person. In the article, I put only a little Moly Paste, to improve the velocity not to slow it down. Now that I have a lot of Moly Paste, I put maybe 4 oz. of the stuff in to the spring, also before I had two main springs in the P1, grate velocity, but pore accuracy.  

If you have good eyes, shoot the P1 as shown below, but if you are over 50 year of age, the best bet is to use a scope, which that I do. ON holding the P1 with a scope is an difference ball game. I know of one competition shooter, that shoots the P1 with a scope, that keeps on holding a Silhouette Master classification , he use to be a friend of Tim McMurray.  I understand that one shooter took the California state Silhouette Championship with a .177 Cal. P1 on low power. In 22 Cal, I never used a P1 in that Cal., so I do not know what to tell you about how to shoot it. In the next e-mail that I will sent you, I will try to explain how I used and hold the P1 with a Scope.     To look at it, you'd swear the PI is a government .45 ACP on steroids. The upper half, which houses the barrel and serves as the cocking handle, is almost twice the size of a Colt slide group. To cock, you thumb back the hammer, which releases the upper housing to swing freely. The barrel is housed in that half; and on our pistol, it was mounted very securely. Swing the upper housing forward to either point that the sear engages—the first click gives you low power, the second high power.  Return the upper housing to its closed position and the gun is ready to fire!
When you hold it, you'd swear the PI is a Colt .45. It balances very close to the standard government slabside, plus the grip dimensions feel exactly the same to me. In fact, one of the big pluses of this air pistol is that it exhibits the same handling characteristics as the .45. You either grip it correctly or you'll chase your point of impact all around the target. In that respect, the PI is about the most perfect trainer for the big bore pistol, have ever encountered. It even bounces in your hand in the same fashion.
About accuracy, let's look at the way to hold a PI (or a Colt .45 pistol) now (see the diagram below).
The first secret is in your middle finger. Wrap it around the grip frame so you can apply pressure straight back into the web of your hand. Your thumb applies NO side pressure, and your other two fingers are also only along for the ride. You hold the gun with your middle finger and the web of your hand. Position your trigger finger in the center of the trigger, so it can apply pressure straight back. No side pressure allowed! The second and only other secret—and this applies to most recoiling guns, as well—is to let the pistol recoil freely. Let it "bounce" in your hand when it fires—the more bounce, the better. Just be sure that the gun, and not the shooter, is doing the bouncing. Try it and see if your groups don't tighten up considerably. That this is the principal reason one-handed pistol shooters are able to out-group two-handed shooters most of the time. The two-handed hold makes the grip too rigid to permit the free recoil necessary for top accuracy in guns that recoil. Two hands are better for rapid repositioning of the gun, like during multiple target engagements and combat shooting; but for precise grouping, nothing can beat the properly executed one-hand hold.

Regarding, to shoot the P1 with a scope. I got the information on holding the P1 with a scope, from Tim McMurray's friend Larry Durham, which holds a master classification for silhouette using the P1. Larry says to hold the bell of the scope with the thumb and fore finger with very light pressure, letting the scope hang freely, holding the trigger hand as you would shooting the P1 without a scope. I shot it that way for a long time untill I shot a pellet through my thumb nail and into my thumb while adjusting the AO ring. I was tired and I was shooting another gun, I guess that I forgot how to shoot the P1 or thought that I was shooting the other gun. Now I shoot the P1, by not holding the bell, but still hold the P1 very lightly. Now I put dampening paste into the main spring which bring down the velocity to about an average of 534 fps. There is less vibration and recoil using the damping paste, which is Moly Paste. The file attachment, showing a picture of the Moly Paste on the main spring. The pcture
below is the way I used to hold the P1.     
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